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津村 喬 中医学 太極気功研究 枕書茶楼 老驥居 zen cooking 気功辞書

*  ZEN COOKING  *


ZEN COOKING 001



In Zen cooking breakfast is always porridge.


Menu is poridge, grinding sesami, takuwan(picked long radish), salted plum,
and one more simple dish like fried vegetables(long radish, carrot and fried tofu).
This is only an example and rice, sesami and pickled vegetable is everyday same, vegetable dish is change.
In many of Kyoto and Osaka family in morning eat porridge. . There is a joke that in moning climb Mt. Hiei can hear the sound of slurp all home of Kyoto and Osaka.
The porridge has 10 good point they say.


  1. be good face complexion
  2. be filled with power
  3. be long live
  4. easy to eat
  5. good for the throat
  6. good for stomack
  7. not catch cold
  8. heal hungry
  9. heal thist
  10. good to pass stools


They lovee the porridge so much.




ZEN cooking 002



Plum Hot Water


Far coming guest arriveled, they serve "plum hot water".
In a cup, hot wataer with honey.
And very sour plum pinched waribashi.
Waribashi is hashi(chop sticks)but in this case don`t devide it insert top plum without seed.





ZEN COOKING 003



Three Mind


In Zen cooking three attitude mind.
One is mind of `pleasure`. You are trusted with cook, and make food. This is a grate pleasure.
One is mind of `old`. How more be good taste, how easy eat, how looks good, all is compassion ability.
One more is `big`mind. Be a big mind constant good make dishes in any situation.





ZEN COOKING 004



Most important thing


When Dogen study in China, in the ship waiting permission of land, some chine monk of famous temple comes and buy some food from Japan ship. This is good chance of contact China monk. So Dogen invite him meal. But he said he is busy. Dogen invite him because making food is young monk task, you must have time to exchange with Japanese guest. But he said no. Dogen said "Monk as you, high grade posision, why cook yoyrself?"
Old monk laughed and said "you don`t know about study anything. "
In another chance, in Tiantanshan, old monk, his back bent, dried seawead. It is hot day and he works not easy. Dogen ask him anyone help. But the monk said "another man do not for my study". Dogen said "You do not in this hot situation, you can do after". But the monk said "You could wait when".
Throgh two episode Dogen understand what is study Buddihsm.





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Who wait


Man is waiting the porridge
Never the porridge is waing man.
Flesh hot is most important.





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Study what?


Study Buddihsm is study yourself.

Study youself is forget yourself.





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Pealing Poteto Skin is Study Buddihsm


Cleaning house, washing clothes, washing face
all is study Buddha`s way.
"Manager of kitchin hands all monks meal is most important.
If he has not Tao mind, it is hard but no profit. "





ZEN COKOING 008



Tasuki


Tenza ha Han wo motte Doshin to nasu.
tenza=monk cooker
han=tasuki. A string the sleeves don`t disturb working.
wo motte=like as
Doshin=Tao mind
Tao mind is understand only direstly a cooking.





ZEN COOKING 009



Daigomi


Daigomi=Most delisious, best taste
Cook Daigomi, but it is not best.
Everyday common dish is not bad.
In everyday selectionyou cook with true mind, sinsirity mind, clean mind
All is Daigomi





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Value of 1 €


Old senior if use 1€ make simple, plaine dish,
now I use same 1€ make delisious, gorgeous dish.





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Life to Life


Most important point of Zen cooking is we eat another life.
We don`t eat animal but all grasses, all trees have own life.
Rice or any other grains have life also.
If we eat them, their life more useful, more brilliant, for future.





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Where come?


Before take meal pray five thigs.
Hitotsuniha Kounotashouwo hakari, kano raishowo hakaru.
One. This food comes how far, various place. Am I deserve it?





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This food judje me


Futatsuniha onregatokugyouno zenketsuwo haktte kuniouzu.
Second. My virtue and action is value for this meal?





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Clean Mind Through Meal


Mittsuniha Shinwohusegi togawohanarurukotoha tontouwo shuutosu.
Third. When you eat anything, not in devour, anger, foolness.





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GOOD MEDICINE


Yottsniha masani ryouyakuwo kototosuruha gyokowo ryouzengatamenari.
Four. Food is the best medicine for heal yourself.





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Food for Satari


Itsutsuniha Jodouno tamenoyueni imakoso konoshokuwo uku.
Five. My Tao is more complete, I eat all.





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Thank you!!


Eat meal is thank you!

Grasses, fruits, all vegetables, grains thank you!
Milk, egg water etc I thank you!
All person plant these and get and bring to me thank you!
Person cook for me thank you!
I eat and make big till universe.
I say thank you universe.
I say thank me as a uiverse!





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Gate Pole of Eiheiji


Gate Pole of Eiheiji both side witten like this.
Right pole is :The Style of Eiheiji is so strict, keep position or rich scholar, if not have want to Buddha difficult to enter this gate.
Left pole is:But this gate is no key or no chain, really determined your mind can any time come and enter the walk with us.





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Sixth Taste


Basic of taste is the balance five. That is sweet, salted, sour, bitter and hot. But important is one more. Is is pale and faint.





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Return Nothing in your hand


If a no good teacher guide you
you enter treasure montain and return nothing in your hand.
This is not only study cooking but Dogen wrote in his cooking book.





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Three Principle


Kyonan Look so light, not heavy, tasteis soft and gentle
Jouketsu Cearn and neat
Nyohousa Make by right way


 「軽軟(きょうなん)」

 「浄潔(じょうけつ)」 

 「如法作(にょほうさ)」




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Same as your Eyes


Some pan that place high good, put high place
Some kettle that place low good, put low place
All tools in order, deal serious and honest way.
Same as yore eyes you use kitchen tools polite.





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WASH RICE DON`T LEAVE OTHER PERSON


Wash rice, wash vegetable use yourself hands Don`t leave other person Because everything is meditation with another lives





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KATSURAMUKI


Everyday monk long radish in katsuramuki You do not long radish skin cut off Make julienne strip Your mind disorder long radish disorder Your mind stability long radish stability.





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FIRE GOD


In the Zen cooking kitchin
They deify fire god and water god.
ALL things this two god make.
Every new year they put up the god`s name for thank them.





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NINE TIMES WORSHIPS


Monks make breakfast rising up 1:00 am.
Another people rise up 3:00. Untill that time porridge and other dish is all ready. Monks arrange all the thing before Idaten god. Idaten can run very fast and connect man and Buddha. Monks bow nine times after that bring them for eat. This is the best manners to Buddha.





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SEVEN RICES


Before start eating one person collect from all monks every seven grains from rice. This is for bird and insect.
This is only seven but big appearance they live with all beings.





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HOUJIKI ITTOU


Religeous rite and eat meal are no disclimination.
hou=religeous rite
jiki=eat meal
ittou=equal





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GOJOUDAN BUSSAI


In the most high place in EIHEIJI threr is Shouyou-den.
Souyou-den named as `Take over the sun`. It means the work of Dogen now yet continue. So eryday they bring meal for Dogen. Of course no one eat but it is a proud of cooking monk. Every day three times he bring dishes.
One day menu is
First Zen
Rice Miso-soup(turnip, fried tofu, struck beans)
Plate boied vegetables
Pickece Takuwan Cucamber
Sesami tofu
Second Zen
Small dish Carrot, mushroom, usuage
Soup Matsutake, gluten
Tofu Dengaku
Dumpling soymilk
gojoudan=higher place
bussai=Buddha`s meal





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TOKUBETSU TENTAIZEN


When serve special guest or in special festival like this cook served.
tokubetsu=special
ten=open
tai=reception
zen=table. This time not Zen relision.
Fist zen
Rice Miso soup(red miso, tofu, mushroom)
Boiled(taro, tofu paper, carrot, shiitake mashroom)
Sashimi konnyaku, Soramame, Takuwan
Second zen
Special cut egg plant, Sweet boil walnut
Sesami Tofu, Soup of tartar
Orange, melon
Third zen
Deep fried konbu, Tempra





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ZEN TABLE OF KAI


In Buddhism, religious precepts, Zenjo and wisdom are referred to collectively with the common phrase 'kai (precepts), jo (zenjo) and kei (wisdom). And this is also th name of table. Except `special`guest , next class table is called `table of Kai(precept)`.

An example of Kai table


First Zen

Rice Miso-soup(Hacchoumiso, tofu, nameko mushroom)
Plate(boiled, gammo, yuba, carrot, shiitakemushuroom)
Sour(sour lotus, carrot, cucamber, chrysanthemum)
Pickled(cucamber, takuan) Small dish(lily root with plum)


Second Zen

Small dish(egg plant, fried peaman, skewered ginko nuts)
Sesami Tofu Soup(mushroom, gluten)
Fried konbu, orange, aga-aga of strauberry





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ZEN TABLE OF JO


Jo table is served general guest.
An example of jo table
Only one table and add desert dish.
Rice Miso-soup(potato, mushroom, seaweed-wakame, gluten)
Plate(Boiled Ganmo, pumpkin, gobo, carrot, shiitake mushroom)
Sour plate of carrot, cucamber ets
Fried and boiled Konnyaku Takuwan
Sesami Tofu Fried kombu, banana, oyaki
ganmo=tofu cake in a big dumpling
gobo=vegetable root
konnyaku=also from root some kind potato
oyaki=sweet cake in mochi





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ZEN TABLE OF E


E table is served group guest to temple.
An Example of E table.
Rice Miso-soup(tofu, fried tofu, green)
Plate(Boiled Yam potato, konnyaku, carrot)
Mixed(cucamber, carrot, wakame, fried tofu)
Fried (egg plant, peaman, carrot with sweet miso)
Takuwan and plum
Sesami Tofu





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SIMPLE LUNCH


In a period of for all Japan meeting over 1000 person collect Eiheiji.
In that time make simple lunch serve people.
One Box lunch and soup.
Barazushi(mixed rice)
rice with koyadofu, carrot, konnyaku, shiitake mushroom, kanpyou
deep fried tofu, beans
Misoshiru(potato, wakame, gluten)
Boiled Atsuage, konbu rolled koya
Spinachi salada Potato salada Takuwan


koyadofu=frised dry tofu. dofu is tofu same
konnyaku=some potato root
kanpyou=thin cut melon and boil in soy sauce
atsuage=fried big cut tofu
usuage=fried thin cut tofu





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MY BEING PLACE


In Zazen place yore seat is ditermined. For one person in sitting style half tatami and lay down one tatami. Tatami is arranged grass mat, usually 90cm*180cm. You put your seat on your place and all dishes. Bihind there is small shelf hidden and you put into sleaping futon. In some period your life is that`s all.
Usually five dishes is overlap and in small bag.
It is ultimate simple form of life.





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Tensai


Tensai means `atatch dish`. When someone gift monks they can get special meals. In many cace it is noodle. Noodle is rare invitation for them. It is some festival.
In Japan usually eat soba=tartar in noodle style but in temple as grain. That is also a pleasure.





ZEN COOKONG 37



HOW TO DO


Dogen wrote in a Kayu Book how to eat in detail.
Don`t make sound by dishes.
Don`t eat too fast only you.
Don`t scratch your head while eating.
Don`t yawn, blow, swinging body. (ha!)
When something get between teeth hide your face.
Don`t much food eat by big mouce.
About seed of plem don`t see another man.
Think how another person not feel good.





ZEN COOKING 038



Head of Shaka


Everyday put coocked rice bowl, they call Zuhatsu. It means the head of Shaka. It means the most important thing in this world.





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THE HOT WATER


After all person finish, take charge person give them hot water.
Use small cloth wash the dishes and clean up all.
After that collect the water again.
The water pour into river and give fishes.





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GOMAKASU


Goma is sesami. Not only make it Goma Tofu (in really in Japan says gomdoufu) we use it in many cace.
Gomakasu is `cheat``swindle`deceive``trick``pocket`etc. bad meaning. But originally `use sesami any food is good taste`. That is praise sesami.





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GOMA AGAIN


Sesami is most importnt protain. In Eiheiji every morning grind sesami for 200 preson. One monk take one our. Sesami is covered by hard skin so need grind. It is origine of power.
They make Gomadoufu sometimes. It is also very hard work.


  1. Sowly fry sesami and put it into Suribachi. Suribachi means with many ditch bowl, by woody stick grind anything.
  2. Hot the sake, mix sesami grind to creamy.
  3. Put into them cotton bag and take sesami soup all.
  4. In the sesami soup mix kuzu root and 30-40 min knead.
  5. In the water put a half day.
  6. Make hard cut.
  7. Put wasabi or ginger.



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PORRIDGE REFRECT CIELING


In Eiheiji when the porrdge very thin, they say `cieling refrect`porridge.
In porrddge there are almost no rice only water.
It called also `eye poridge`because eye yourself refrect.
This is the legend of very poor age.
But generally the porridge of Eiheiji is not thick.
In Koyasan porridge is more thick, because fear of hungry is more serious.





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SOUP STOCK IN KOYASAN


In Koyasan we take basic soup stock like this.
Water 5. 4l Konbu 2hon Donko mushroom 20
Kanpyou 80g No oil fried soy beans 80g
No oil fried rice 50g Rice wine a little
konbu=seaweed. Take Japanese north sea which make best soup stock.
donko=In the dried shiitake mushroom, curl up round one called donko. It is best for soup stock.
kanpyo=a kind of melon. Make peal long strings.


  1. Exsept rice all in the water.
  2. Boil weak fire till konbu stock out.
  3. Go out konbu and kanpyou.
  4. Though cloth go out shitake and soy beans.
  5. Enter rice and wine and again throgh cloth.



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SOUP STOCK IN EIHEIJI


In Eiheji basically same. But they start select a kind of Konbu.
Ma-konbu=Best quority. Thick brown konbu and can take good stock
Rishiri-konbu=This is called dashi konbu. Make clear dashi, but after take dashi, no use. Ather are again use boil vegetable.
Rausu-konbu=Use boil vegetable, don`t use soup.
Hidaka-konbu=Ceap light tasted soft konbu.
Rishiri, Rausu, Hidaka is name of place. Ma-konbu is `real`meaning.
Generally in Eiheiji use Hidakaboil boil vegetable and for soup use Rishiri.
Don`t wash konbu. Only clean up wet towel. 1 litle water konbu 15cm ~20cm. In the cold water in winter 30min. in summer 10 min. and boil.
The best situation of stock is 80~90℃. Don`t boil up. 3 minits off. This is `ichiban-dashi`, best quority stock.
`niban-dashi`is second quority. Used iciban-dashi half water again.
In the cold water 10 ours dip `mizudashi` takes good stock. About shitake, daizu kanpyou can good stock by over night.





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IN SILENT BITE TAKUWAN


Takuwan make sound. In usual expressin the sound of `Karits`by bite. But in Eiheiji you don`t make any sound.
Takuwan is made from long radish. Usually man arm long, and more fat. In Japanese call ladies legs `daikon-asi`, it means beatiful? leg as like as long radish.
We get fron farm long radish mainly last of Autumn, and in Eiheijiin December they pickled 5000 long radish for one years Takuwan.
Takuwan is name of famous Zen monk in Edo age. He discovered this pickles so the radish called Takuwan.
At first we pickle in salt the radish. And after that put it into rise-bran. The yellow colour is come from ukon-chinese medicine.





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SALT AND SOUR UME


Umeboshi is base of Japanese food with Takuwan.
We introduce it as a plum or apricot but it is not correct, we use Japanese`ume`.
ume no ki=ume tree
ume no mi=fruit of ume
ume boshi=dried ume. hoshi(boshi is lieson)means dried, but ume boshi cotain both dried and salted.
ume zuke=don`t dry only salted

We make umeboshi in June. After satled three days dry in sunshine.
In traditional way makig we possible eat several hundred years. In old family in Nara keep 1576 make. They eat umeboshi in 1600th usually.
Umeboshi has strong sterilise power.
Nowadays tasted umeboshi is mainly sold.


Shiso ume=ume with pickled perilla, shiso leaves Konbu ume=ume with konbu taste
Katso ume=ume with bonita and soy sauce
Haney ume=ume add honey


Umeboshi use not only food but also a good drag. In old record Murakami Tenno heal sickness by umeboshi. Now many of Japanese bring umeboshi expect sterilise, recovery tiredness, feaver, protest virus.





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3 KIND OF TAKUWAN COOKING


I said Takuwan and Umeboshi is base of Japanese food.
We only eat thick cut takuwan, change its form, various way. I introduce some.

1 Fried Takuwan

 3 mm thick round cut, and soak in the water, until a little salt rest. Use 1/2 of big takuwan.
Carrot 30g into julienne strips. Green peas a little.
In fring pan fry takuwan and carrot with strong fire 1 minutes. Aad sesami oil fry 30 second more, change small fire, boil add 1 cup kobu suop, rice wine, mirin big spoon 2, soy sauce 1, redpepper 5 minutes and add greenpeas 1 minute more.
Put 1 hour for taste harmonize.


2 Takuwan and Cucamber

 Takuwan is string cut. Cucamber also strips. Mixed both and leave 30 minutes. Salt of takuwan move cucumber. Press the water and serve.



3 Takuwan Maki

 Spread makisu(bamboo rolling mat) and place nori, seaweed on the bamboo. Spread with rice leaving 3cm empty on the side away from you. Cut takuwan into bar 1cm*4cm and roll up. Cut and serve.





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SOME USING OF UMEBOSHI


1 Tea for Two

 Hit and crush umeboshi, add a little soy sauce and a little crush ginger pour hot bancha. This is good drink for summertime or winter cold.


2 Pink Juice

 Pickled ume liquar can add sugar and be good juice. You can drink it water down.


3 Ume paste can be a drag

 Usually for stomack.
Old lady often paste temple for headache(umeboshi-babaa)


4 For eczema

u can compress ume paste.


5 Hinomaru bentou

 Hinomaru is sunshine flag, Japanese fiag. Bentou is lunch. In lunch box filled white rice and center of it big Umeboshi, they call it `hinomaru bentou`.


6 Bonita and umeboshi onigiri

Bonita is not strictry belongs Zen cooking. But this is so delicious forget sin. Boiled rice and fine chopped umeboshi and crushed bonita and mix. Add a little soy souce and make rice ball.


7 Ume Porridge

 A person who has stomack problem the best food is porrdge with umeboshi. You can cut seeds and mak





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MY DEAR GOHAN


Wash rice

Place rice in a bowl, add ample water, stir quickly, and discard the cloudy water immediately.
Why? The smell of bran is not good. In Europe for example when make Paella, spanish fiish and rice, almost don`t wash rice. This is very big differrence. First stir very quickly and after wash many time until the water clear. Then let stand for 30 minutes so rice absorb moisture. If you hurry water inclease a little.
In Pots or Pan.Place rinsed rice and water in a heavy pot, cover and heat on mediam for 10 minutes.
Mizukagen=the balance of water and rice is difficult at first. Put middle finger stand on rice and water is coming a little over first finger joint. But at first you leane from Japanese teacher. Next boil strong fire about 15 minuts. And stop the fire.
And 10 minutes let stand.
For make good rice you never take out pot cover.

Old words says


Hajime chorochoro=first fire not strong

Naka pappa=midle in strong fire

Akago naitemo futa toruna=baby cry but vever pot cover off


We can cooks electric rice cooker. It can make costantly, but not very tasty.
Of course the problem is we can select how good rice. Indica rice don`t cook like this. In Helsinki we can buy in Tokyo-kan Japanese rice or in Stockman you can get Sushi-mai. In Talline`s Stockman you get Sushi-mai. But they are so expensive. You buy short grain rice as alternative.





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RED RICE for GIRL


We use another kind of rice.
We Japanese ate in anciant time red rice and black rice. Recent time they revivaled as healty food. But this is another.
This red rice use mochi rice and azuki beans.
Japanese want leave old life custom in a holy day. We ate in old days red rice but no one keep them.
Mochigome is also anciant another age ate generally and we use and colored add azuki beans.
Mochigome is sticky than genral uruchi rice so very easy make rise cake.
But in this cace don`t make mochi. It is called glutinous rice.

Wash glutinous rice and soak in the water 12 hours.
Wash azuki beans boil 5 minutes. Cange water and first over heat after to low, cook beans until tender.
In the wash bean water after cold soak the rice 1 hour.
Move steamer and cook over high heat for 30 minutes.
By boilng azuki beans water the rice is also be red.
At serve time add seasame and salt.


Red rice is eaten for celebration.
In some festival, enter school etc.
Especially for young girls celebrate the first menstrual.





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MUGI GOHAN


komugi=wheat

oomugi=barley

In Japan Mugi gohan(mugimeshi)is rice and barley.

Before rice is expensive and barley is cheap, Prime Minister Ieda said "poor people don`t eat rice but eat barlay". But now barlay is more expensive because useful for health.
Rice and barley ratio is free but barley too much it hard to eat.
How to cock is almost same as rice.





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TAKENOKO GOHAN


Take is bamboo, takenoko is bamboo shoot.
Take is beautiful but hard, can not eat. When the new takenoko appeared from the earth, in spring we dig it.
At first boil baboo shoot with rice-bran and a little redpepper 30 minutes. And leave 30 minutes more.
Rice wash and pour water, add Japanese wine, soy souce, leave it 30 minutes. Cut in quoter-round bamboo shoot, usuage in strip. On the rice put on konbu.
Taku. Taku is boil but when rice only use(in Tokyo district).
Yosoou. Yosoou means put rice to chawan. Put on sprout of pricky ash.





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SOY MILK PORRIDGE


Sweet poridge. Rice 1/2 cup, water3+1/2cup, soy milk2cup. Boiled azuki big spoon 2. wine2, sugar2, soy sauce small spoon1.
At fierst in strong fire, after small fire 30 minutes boil.





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MAKI ZUSHI


maki=roll

zushi=sound change of sushi

For 2 person. Nori, paper of seaweed, koyadoufu1, kanpyou20g, dried shiitake3 piece, mitsuba, sushi meshi, soy sauce and sugar, salt.

nori=in department store or big supermarket in Helsinki and Talline we can find easy.
koyadoufu=originally the toufu freezed on the Koya mountain in winter time. doufu is change of toufu.
kanpyou=dried melon. use boil in soy sauce. You can change carrot.
mitsuba=green vegetable for smell. You can change dill.
On the nori sheet spread rice, roll the gu(all insider). And cut.
Makizushi and Inarizushi is most general lunch in Japan. It is very usual lunch or take a trip as bentou.





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INARI THE GRATE


Inari is the name of a lake in Lappland. It is the second biggest lake in Finland over 180, 000 lakes. And also the name of town. I have to over 20 times in for season. Mid summer, or Northern lights in Winter, every season has a grate invitation.

I don`t know from when I bring every time Inarizushi no moto from Japan and make Inarizushi.
Inari=bring rice(not grain but plant)
Inari gami=fox god. They bring the message from man to Gods and come back with rice.
Inari shrine=In South end of Kyoto there is a Fushimi Inari shrine which is the headquorter of Japan biggest shirine network.
Inari-Zushi=In front of shrine small Chamise(tea restaurant) make image advertize Inarizushi for come from all country. In every new year Inari shrine 2, 500, 000 person come. Inari-zushi fro before has eatened. From 1840 there is some record.
How to cut fried tofu is various. For only Inari half size cut.
Boil in vesitarian soup, soy sauce, sugar. Squeeze soup.
Carrot, shiitake mashroom, gobou boiled. Mix with rice and stuff.
Cut tofu you can triangle or square.
You can add onomi(frax) , sesami, benishouga(ginger picled ume).





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ZARU SOBA


Zaru soba is Japanese representative noodle.
THey sell soba looks like spagetti.But it is not made from wheet,but a noodle style tartar.Japanese rear eat original style sobagaki(tartar).In 500 years old Ninja bring tartar powder in his pocket and eat it by knead with water.
Ceap soba made by 50% others wheet.
Nihachi soba(two eight) is 20%wheet,80%soba.
Juwari soba is 100% soba.
Athers
Use the Yam poteto for join.or
Use the eggs for join.
Much soba taste good,but difficult to formation.
Make dipping sauce.Place mirin in a sauce pan and bring to a boil.This is for alchol of mirin take off.Add soup stock sugar and soysauce.Chill it in a refrigerator.
Boil a generous amount of hot water,and cook fresh soba noodles.
When done,rince in cold running water,squeezing and turning the noodles with one hand to get rid of stickness.Drain in the serve.
Zaru of zarusoba means shallow basket only for eat zarusoba.
Arrange the noodles on this basket serve dipping sauce.
This cup for soba dipping sauce,we call a Sobochoko and collect various kind.In some cace guest can sellect many sobachoko as like as choko of Japanese wine.





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KAMA-AGE UDON


Udon is one more reprezentative Japanese noodle.
Udon is made from wheet,and more thick.5 times to 10 times thick.
Soba is mainly had in north arar in Japan.West Japan is Udon culture zone.Famous Udon district is Osaka and Sanuki(kagawa prifecture).
Nagoya use Red Miso make misonikomi udon. Soba is fomous Shinshu(Nagano),and Tokyo.And west district Izushi(Hyogo,Japan sea side),Izumo(Shimane) is very fomous.We can guess the old Japanese likes Soba and new conquest likes udon from this map.

Kama-age udon is the special products of Sanuki udon.

Dip sauce mainly use usukuchi soysauce.Usukuchi means the color is pale but more little salty.
Koikuchi is the color is dark but not salty.

Kama-age means in the woody tub udon and boiled hot water serve.
Ginger,cut leak,sesamiin small dish.

Udon is very fast change.We say it `nobiru`meas too soft and no taste.When udon is in hot water but some soup we feel it more.Before I write about porridge,`man can wait porridge,but poridge don`t wait man`udon also.





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HIYASHI SOMEN


Soba,Udon,Somen are Japanese 3 big noodle.
Somen is very thin and made from wheet.
Once more compare them.

Soba=noodle of tartar=the old Jomon Japanese eat
Udon=thick noodle from wheet=coming from korea eat
Somen=thin noodle from wheet=same as udon

Japanese is made from several different layer.
Oldest Japanese is Ainu.From north came and almost all Japan spread.It center was Mt.Fuji.It is Mother Mountain in Ainu langage.
The second coming was from Porinesia.They bring underwater fishing and taropotato culture.
The third coming was from Krea,they bring slash-and-burn agliculture snd family system.
The forth coming was from south China bring rice field.
The last coming was from Korea as Tenno Family.
Soba ate first three layers,and Udon and Somen coming the last.
In Okinawa and Amami islands somen usully eat as fried somen.They say it `somin`.In mainland we usually eat in suop.ginger,leak,sesami same.





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KITSUNE UDON


About kitsune see `Inari Zushi`.Kitsune is a fox,and a messenger of Gods.
And very like fried tofu.So this means `Hot noodle with fried tofu`.
Near the trainig place of Imazu Bujutsu Dojou there is a Udon shop.Kauko`s favorite was Kitsune Udon this shop.There put top of the udon bonita flake and he ask remove bonita.After that every time Kauko went clerk shout `katsonuki icchou!`(one person without bonita).
Kitsune udon is especially Osaka person`s favorite,they pronounce this `ketsune uron`.There are the ketune special shop in Kuromon Market or Shisaibashi everyman know.
When cook Kitsune udon prepare 3 small pans.One is for boil age,another one is for dashi=soup,and one more is boil noodle.
Boil Inari age thick strong taste with sugar and soysauce.I don`t like sweet,every one can regulate.Usually you don`t cut into dice cut or cube cut but a half cut of whole.
Soup make by bonita usually but in zen cooking use konbu and shiitake.
See `dashi`.
We boil udon not so soft.
Donburi is made for udon eating big cup.Enter donburi udon,pour dashi soup and load kitsune,with a little ginger and reek.





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CURRY UDON


In modern Japanese curry comes England.
The imperialists meet to Indian curry,change mild western style.
They make so called curry roux,Indian flaverd westernstyle roux.
In modern Japan cookers experienced England curry,thought `this is very good taste but how can make it easy`.They use long time study,create sorid curry material.So Japanese curry is very different from Indians.
In Tashou period Indian indipendent revolution is liven up,many revolutionalis come to Japan.Named Borse Indian leader come and hide by Mr.and Mis.Soma.They are poet and have a restaurant named Nakamuraya.Borse thanks their care and surprised so called curry rice in Japan,teach some Indian currey for their restaurant.This is the origine of Indian Curry in Japan.
Now we make or eat Indian curry but usually it is spcial case.We use Japanese style curry roux.

Curry udon is very special Japanese food.We put on the udon and soysauce dashi,pour Japanese curry.

We introduce a way use Koyadoufu.
Koyadoufu dip water and cut 12 cubes.Deep fry.
Fry onion and pour soup add koyadoufu,boil.
Add curry roux,cook 3 more minutes,and starch-water mixture to thicken.Add scallions just before removing from heat.
Heat udon noodles in boilin water and drain.
Noodle on the bowl and top curry soup.





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FOUR EXERCISE


Fomous Chinese poet Bai Letian asked Master Daolin
"What is the most important thing in Buddhism?"
Master said
"Do not do bad thing,do goog thing"
Bai Letian said
"It is three years old child knows"
Master said
"Three yaes child know but for eighty year old man can not do"
Master Dogen decided four practice in everyday life.
"fuse" Give others what you have.Not only money,meal,but smile or saying Buddha`s way.
"aigo" Give others gentle word.
"ligyou" Serve other not for your profit.
"douji" Think others position,do he is glad.
Understand but difficult.





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HIYASHI CHUKA


Hiyashi=cold
chuka=Chinese

This is very similer with Chinese Lianbanmien but this is not same as Hiyashi chuka.One is Japanese Hiyashi chuka after boil wash in the water.One more different is use vineger.And chinese use Jimazhang(sesami sauce)or huashengzhang(peanut sauce)genrally but in Japan don`tuse.
The origine of Hiyashi chuka is Yoshukousaikan(Restaurant Yanzijian) in Kanda Jinbocho.Jinbocho is a famous old book town.My mother sometimes take me and say "don`t forget this taste".The place she take me a few point,mutton curry of Shijuku Nakamuraya,club sandwitch of Ginza shiseidou,etc.She is poor but teach me Japan the best taste.In Kyoto
Morning Porridge of Hyoutei,or etc.
Eiheiji`s Hiyashi chuka is Japanese style.
The thuder is very hard so stop here.





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SOBAGAKI


Soba is buckwheet.In many place of Eurasia it is called Tartar because a part of Mongorian army Tartar ethnic very wide range and Tartar is also.The name is spreaded east Siberia to Spain.
In Japan Powder of Tartar regaed as carry food in a trip.Moutain monk or Ninja especially like.
Powder of buckwheet add water in strong fire knead.
Konbu soup big spoon 5,soysauce small spoon2.And eat.
In Japan soba noodle is very usually but Sobagaki no chance to eat without mountain temple.
Original style Tartar porridge also very rear.





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MISOSIRU OF TOUFU AND WAKAME


From here the variation of miso soup.
Once again Japan miso map.
Hokkaido No original miso in modern time various moso come and use.
Tohoku Rice is not enogh so little rice and soy make red miso.
Kanto Rice a little more so make brown miso.
Nagoya to Fukui Quite differrent culture.Black red miso.Don`t use
rice but only beans.Akadashi miso.
Kyoto to Hiroshima Rice is rich so use much rice made sweat and white miso.
Nagasaki Use buckwheet insted of rice and soybeen.
Here we use in miso soup can all posibility,but I write standard model.
In this cace I use Shinshu miso.This is easy to get,one standard of kanto miso.
Cooking way is very easy.Take dashi=soup and add miso.
Cut tofu 1cm,soak wakame in cold water,and cut 2.5cm.
Dashi 600cc,miso 60g is stadard but taste and change.
Chop scallion finely,rince in cold water and drain.
(sarashi negi=rince scallion)
This can change miso to Akadashi.Quite another style.
Wakame is easy to use.Use every kind misoshiru or sumashi(clear soup) or boilrd,fried,raw use.





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MISOSHIRU OF AGE AND SPINACH


Age is Thin Fried Tofu.This is difficult to get in Europe.
But someday you can buy it in Stockman or Tokyodo.
Age is not pronounce 〈eijdi〉 but〈a・ge〉.
This is also very standard miso soup.
Misoshiru has except soup, "gu" and "suikuchi".
Usuage and spinach are "gu" ,that is,main material of misoshiru.
"Suikucsi" means when first drink impact.In this cace Shichimi-tougarashi
(Seven-taste hotpepper),Sansho(Japanese pepper),Ichimi-tougarashi(Only one hotpepper),scallion,white pepper,ginger,yuzu orangepeal,sesami,etc.
Various suit is possible,but in this case seventaste hotpepper is suitable.
Dashi,Miso,Gu,and Suikuchi are four elements of Misosoup.





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KENCHIN SOUP


Everybody knows the name of `kenchin-jiru`(shiru=jiru is soup)no one know why say so.An old temple Kenchouji of Kamakura insist that origine of kenchinjiru is kenchou-jiru.
Kenchin jiru is usually based on Miso and in some case Soysauce.
Make dashi soup,boil vegetable,and miso,very simple.
Vegetable is shiitake-mushroom,bamboo shoot,carrot,konnyaku,tofu etc.
Japanese style soft Tofu is sure necessry but other vegetable you find there in that season.Potato and carrot are ok.Zucciini,cabegge,brussels,etc.
Crunble tofu corsely by hand.Heat oil in a soup pot,and stir-fry all vegetables and tofu.Use shinshu-miso.As suikuchi ginger water and seven tasted redpepper.





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KAKITAMA SOUP


Kakitama soup is not use miso,but use soysauce.
Tama is shorten form of tamago=egg.
Kaki=scramble
Beat egg lightly.
Cut mitsuba into 2.5cm lengths.
Boil soup,add salt and soysauce.Starch water mixture gradually to thicken.
Swirl in beaten egg,rotating the pot.
Add mitsuba and ginger water.
Use dill insted of mitsuba.





ZEN COOKING 074



ZONI=MOCHI SOUP


Mochi is rise cake.Soup is Miso soup or clear soysauce soup.
The story is looks very simple.
But there is many difference.
Mochi use ronnd mochi or square.
Mochi bake or boil.
Soup use red miso,brown miso,white miso,akadashi miso,buckwheet miso etc.
Dashi of soup takes from bonita,konbu,haze,fly fish,kamaboko,salmon,
shiitake mushroom,etc.
And `gu` is cotents of zoni,it is very very various.Every area has own zoni.





ZEN COOKING 075



VARIOUS ZONI


By a book of study Zoni there are at least over 200 kind of Zoni in Japan.
I introduce several example.
Miyagi.(near Sendai)
Haze soup.Small fish,dried.Soy sauce without miso.
Daikon,carrot,shiitake,dried koyadofu,kamaboko,ikura.
Baked square rice cake.
kamaboko=fish cake
ikura=original Russian.egg of salmon
Tochigi.(north of Tokyo)
Bonita soup.Soy sauce without miso.
Chicken,naruto,mitsuba,daikon,carrot,gobo,satoimo.
Baked square rice cake.
naruto=special design of fisucake.There written whirl.Naruto is a famous
sea of whirl.
gobo=vegetable root.
Okayama
Bonita,konbu soup.White miso soup.
Yellowtail,kamaboko,daikon,usuage,negi.
Round mochi,boil.
Amakusa(near Nagasaki,Island)
Tobiuo dashi.soy sauce.
Chicken,yellow fish,kamaboko,shiitake,daikon,carrot,gobo,bomboo shoot(dried),yuzu.
Round mochi,bake.
In north Japan many home hung up big salmon and everyday cut and use.In south west Japan many home hung up yellowfish.But n\this is not Zen cooking.
They have not only new years they but sure eat new years day so every person like his special taditional way.
Here introduce is not any standard but an example.It is near the Kyoto style but not strict.
Daikon(long radish)cut into round 1.5cm thick.Carrot cut also rond 7mm.Boil in the hot water.Satoimo(Japanese taro)cut 1.5cm and boil.
Mochi is in the hot water make soft.Place all vegetable and mochi,and 2.5cm cut mitsuba,and pour hot soup.As `suikuchi`put on yuzu peel.
I got Dogen`s original text
Yesterday in a bookshop in Osaka I found Dogen text.Dogen wrote about how to make and eat mainly two books.One is"Tenzo Kyoukun"and one more is "Fushukuhanpou".This kodansha Academia Edition version contain both text.I already introduce the words of Dogen,but I have first time whole style,it is very interesting.
"Tenzo Kyoukun" means `The teachings of Cooking Producer`and
"Fushukuhanpou"means `How to go to meal place and how to eat rice or porrigge`.In "Zen Cooking"1~76 about"Tenzo kyoukun"I already introduce,so rest part talk about "Fushukuhanpo".
Dogen said eat and Buddhas way is one.
We need this book the age of huge food is threw away.





ZEN COOKING 076



NATTO JIRU


Natto is very special Japanese food.Who is don`t accustomed eat difficult natto.But this is one of Zen taste. In China natto is called `Douchi` but it is quite another thing.Dchi and natto both made from soy beans,douchi use koji bakteria,but natto use natto bakteria.Herethe menu used Okura.
Okura is similer with natto.
Natto is very cheep.Usually 3 boxses 0.8€.
Two okura wedge cut.One okura edge cut.Zuccini cut round.
Beat natto rough.Kobu soup 1.5cup,Sake big spoon 2,miso bs1,soysauce ts1/2 boil with natto,add okura and zuccini.
I bring some natto.You can very easy make it by yoursef.





ZEN COOKING 077



SUITON


There is a soup look like in Estonia.How about?
Knead wheet and water,make hardness like earlobe.Leave 20 minuts.
Shiitake mushroom,carrot,radish,gobo,cut.Usuage cut 3cm*0.5cm.
3 cup water boil,in it 5*10cm cut konbu,add shitake water.Japanese wine 1/2cup,soysauce Big spoon2,salt tea spoon1/2.
Tear wheet mass and boil.
Add some green leaf.
Old Japanese remember suiton as food in the war and many of them hate it.But in zen temple constantly has ate.





ZEN COOKING 078



KABUNO KASUZIRU


This is also by material from Japan we have to bring.Sakekasu is lees of Japanese sake.Sake made from rice so sake lees also rice product.I can bring it but can not buy in the shop.(I am not sure Helsinki-Tokyokan may keep frozen sakekasu).
For one person.Kabu is turnip. 2 pieces.If there is lraves use it cut in 3cm.Carrot,Atuage(tufu)cut.Make konbu soap,Lees ground in suribachi.Or cut small piece lees.Make thick soup and all material boil.
Sake lees has a little rest wine.So monks like this soup very much.
Use miso is OK.





ZEN COOKING 079



GOJIRU


I didn`t know Gojiru in Tokyo or Kyoto.I guess this is not urban culture.I first time have Gosiru in Kumamoto.But it is not Kumato dish but various district I gradually found.Eiheiji also their own Gojiru.
We say gronded soy beans Go and its soup Gojiru.Soy beans soak one night and in suribachi groind.Add konbu soup.
Long radish,gobo cut in 5mm.Carrot cut strips.Konbu soup2cup,
sake1/4cup,soy sauce big spoon2,white miso big spoon1,and Kinusaya or any green vegetable decolated.





ZEN COOKING 080



MISO SOUP OF THE REAVINGS


Reavings means reuse the lest another dish make miso soup.
It is very interesting I I found in the Koyasan Cooking Book it.
Bomboo shot,shiitake mushroom,carrot etc. rest of once use boilng.
Cut them and in the dashi soup boil again.
You can take anything and suit.
Dashi soup 2cup,buckwheet miso(or Shinshu miso etc)30g.At last attach mitsuba or any green leaves.
This is general housewives econocal way,but interesting in Koyasan cooking Book.Threr is big diference if this one item is or not.





ZEN COOKING 081



HIYA-YAKKO


Soup is finish and from here start Tofu cooking.
Tofu is Japanese usual food.Very rich man as Rosanjin Kitaoji(Make fafous Japanses restaurant and supply Japan dishes to high end class)loves Hiya-yakko best.Wives of coal miners in north Kyusho also love yakko only put tofu on the rice and pour only soysauce.Every Japanese love Hiya-yakko in evry way.
hiya=cold
yakko=square cut.I comes from design of cloth of shake spear.In Edo age when Daimyou move with its bodyguard and they called Yarimochi-yakko.Their cloth design include square mark.By the way the penname of Shakespear comes from this,but not Japanese.
One more thing,there is in Tofu a difference of Momen and Kinu.Momen is cotton,Kinu is silk.But its not difference how to make.Kinu is a little much
water component.We use as Yakko both.
We cut Tofu from left.Row fish or takuwan etc all cut from support left hand and right hand from right cut.But only Tofu cut from left end to right. Tofu is easy to crush,like as hold Buddha`s baby deal politely.
We cut tofu 1 piace in 6 to 10.Depnd on for how many person or how hugry.
As a souce only soysauce and a little add sour from yuzu,kabosu,not sweat orange.Or boil soysauce and bonita.And one more is Yakumi.Cut Ohoba(shiso),yuzu oroshi,myouga is all hard to get.Ginger,shichimi,bonita etc possible.Choice two from them.
Taste of Tofu is pale.And souce and yakumi is important.
It not insist like some meat or fish.But give us deep messages.





ZEN COOKING 082



YUDOFU


Yu=hot water

Yudofu=tofu in the hotwater
Yudofu and Hiya-yakko is eat way the tohu representative two way.
Yudofu is especially in winter,and Hiya-yakko is in summer,but favorite tofu eater both in summer and winter.
Tsujitome is the author of the “Tofu Cooking”.He is manager and cooker of famous traditional restaurant and cooking writer.My boyhood I learned from him through his ten more books.His “A book of Gohan””Misoshiru 365 days””Tsugitome Home Cooking” etc was my best text book.
The top of“Tofu Cooking” has foreword.Mantaro Kubota wrote some song.Kubota is very famous poet and drama maker.I try to introduce.
Minofuyuno In my old winter
Todono tsumariha At last I eat
Yudofuno of Yudofu
Awre hikagen ukikagen Pity fire adjustment and floating
Tsukiha kakurete The moon hide
Ameto nari Its rain strted
Ame mata yukito narishikana rain changed in snow
Shosen konoyoha hitorinari after all I am alone in this world
Nakumo waraumo Weep or laugh
Nakumo waraumo hitorinari Weep or laugh I am alone
Kubota make song of Yudofu,through that sing loneliness of old.After that Rokuzaemon Kineya,make Kouta song.But he added last one prase”samuosuna”.Samuosuna means “It is very cold,isn`t it”.This is Kyoto word and woman word and some lady come to this lonly old hopeless man.
My mother was teacher of Kouta and Sonohachi,and she want before death teach me some.She selected first was this song so this is a special memory.
About Yudofu soup,various opinions.
Some one konbu is the best.
Baked Ayu=white fish is more.
No,Haze is the best.No no cod is good.
Tsujitome says every way is wonderful,but it is for vivid the taste of water.If use chicken soup it too strong and it is not Yudofu.
Boil tofu but floating up it is too late to taste.After move tofu before float you catch.Outside hot but inside exactly warm.This is not special technique but only watch and take off.
Soysauce of Yudofu is soup 3,soysauce 6,mirin 1 in the sauce pan add bonita flake.Mirin already contain a little sugar so do not add sugar.Tsujitome says sauce is cold better.
We say Yakumi various spice.You can chois 2,3 kind from bonita,leak,nori,fried sesami,radish,ginger,wasabi,yuzu orange,shichimi(seven hot spices),ichimi(one hot spice),etc.
From here plan.I continu till 100 Tofu cooking.



ZEN COOKING 083 Nigari story


ZEN COOKING 084 Myouto daki Hasband and wife(Boiled yakidofu and usuage)


ZEN COOKING 085 Maruage dofu Fried tofu


ZEN COOKING 086 Dengaku Spit baked tofu


ZEN COOKING 087 Misozuke dofu Tofu pickeled with miso


ZEN COOKING 088 Himuro dofu Steamed egg and tofu


ZEN COOKING 089 Kaminari dofu Tofu fry in the oil


ZEN COOKING 088 Himuro dofu Cold steamed egg and tofu


ZEN COOKING 089 Kaminari dofu Fried in oil


ZEN COOKING 090 Hiryuzu Flyng dragon=fried tofu


ZEN COOKING 091 Yuzu dofu Tufu stuffed in yuzuorang


ZEN COOKING 092 Shisen dofu Mabodofu without meet


ZEN COOKING 093 Yaki dofu Baked tofu


ZEN COOKING 094 Yuki nabe Pot of grate radish


ZEN COOKING 095 Mizore nabe Pot of grate kabu


ZEN COOKING 096 Unohana Flied ground tofu


ZEN COOKING 097 Koya fukumeni Simmered Freezedried Tofu


ZEN COOKING 098 Usuage to hakusai Thin slliced fiied tofu and chinese cabbege


ZEN COOKING 099 Atsuage to daikonno nikomi Flied tofu and radish


ZEN COOKING 100 Cha doufu icchou! Fried tofu one dish!




ZEN COOKING 083



NIGARI STORY


How to make and use tofu is originally China came.Various soy beans products for example yuba,atsuage,usuage,Miso,soy sauce,nattou ets are all coming from China.Only Japanese natto is found in Japan in very old Joumon age.China commig natou is quite differrennt.In many case Japavese student of Buddhism leaned about tofu also. In China they made hard tofu use gypsum(S-Ca) and Na-Mg in two way.
When Japanese monk return to home,some Chinese monk said "In your country there is rich Na-Mg by the sea.Use make tofu Na-Mg" and Japanese tofu use Na-Mg. But after that long histiry Japanese tofu maker made use not only Na-Mg but also use S-Ca.They made Japan special soft tofu called it Kinugoshi dofu,and use Na-Mg as Momen dofu.Kinu is silk,momen is cotton.But its not use any Kinu or Cotton cloth,only products is soft or hard.
Boil soy beans and into linen sack and squeese,make soy milk.Add Na-Mg or S-Ca make hard.But Japanese both tofu compare China very soft.You can find in Helsinki or Talline supermarket easy find Chinese tofu,it is not for Japanese cooking use.





ZEN COOKING 084



Myouto daki Hasband and wife(Boiled yakidofu and usuage)


Soy beans is called "meat of field" and have rich nutritious.In Japan soy beans not plant on purpose in side of field rich.So soy beans used various way in the life.
Mouto is hasband and wife.The name of cooking this means yakidofu and usuage in soysuace and soup.It means same mind through a few word.
The people of Kyoto often make this like as "no idea make Myotodaki".
yaki dofu=baked tofu.They sell yaki doufu by professional made.
usuage=This is also we buy tofu shop or supermarket.Thin flied tofu.
Cut yakidofu and age in square or triangle.In pan these and suitable water and soy sauce and sliced bonita.Boil up and leave to cold.This is the time for taste.When eat once more warm and serve.





ZEN COOKING 085



Maruage dofu


maru=whole
age=fry
Ingen zen master make a funny song.
Life is round and square and soft
Do not accept hate from oldman or youngman
He idealise tofu.
You can use tofu squar half cut,or try to circle.On the dish enter wheet flower and tofu in it.And deep fry in vegetable oil.Crushed long radish and bonita flake and soysauce,and serve.





ZEN COOKING 086



DENGAKU


I have a book titled "Health Food Tofu" 1986,near 30 years ago.Writer are three,I wrote over half,Shizuka Tsuruta san wrote rest,last nine page by a master of tofu shop Mamehjko Inoue.
In this book I introduced 176 kind of tofu dish.Not only history or taste,but also how to cook.In it I wrote.

"Hauta song Ichimaru sing". "Four seasons of Kyoto". Spring is flouer,
let`s come and sea east mountain side.Briliant night cherry blosamT.
Cheerful,with light heart,essence and insensitive,Put in two hard but soft.
Two restaurant of Gion tofu`
Put in two is Bushi has two sword.But here in this place change two stick of Dengaku tofu.Bushi come nere here cannot swagger,Kyoto peaple think so.





ZEN COOKING 087



Misozuke dofu Tofu pickeled with miso



ZEN COOKING 088



Himuro dofu Steamed egg and tofu



ZEN COOKING 089



Kaminari dofu Tofu fry in the oil



ZEN COOKING 090



Hiryuzu Flyng dragon=fried tofu




ZEN COOKING 091



Yuzu dofu Tufu stuffed in yuzuorang




ZEN COOKING 092



Shisen dofu Mabodofu without meet




ZEN COOKING 093



Yaki dofu Baked tofu




ZEN COOKING 094



Yuki nabe Pot of grate radish




ZEN COOKING 095



Mizore nabe Pot of grate kabu




ZEN COOKING 096



Unohana Flied ground tofu




ZEN COOKING 097



Koya fukumeni Simmered Freezedried Tofu




ZEN COOKING 098



Usuage to hakusai Thin slliced fiied tofu and chinese cabbege




ZEN COOKING 099



Atsuage to daikonno nikomi Flied tofu and radish




ZEN COOKING 100



Cha doufu icchou! Fried tofu one dish!







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